Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds form.
This is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.
"I've noticed people concealing heroin or whatever in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of growers who make vintage from several hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and community plots across Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.
City Vineyards Around the World
So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of the French capital's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Vineyards assist cities stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces protect open space from development by establishing permanent, productive farming plots inside urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a product of the earth the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who tend the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, environment and heritage of a city," notes the spokesperson.
Mystery Polish Grapes
Back in the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation comes, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he says, as he cleans damaged and rotten berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Efforts Throughout Bristol
Additional participants of the group are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so evocative," she says, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the car windows on vacation."
Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from the soil."
Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, sixty, is picking clusters of dusty purple dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for more than £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually create quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of making vintage."
"When I tread the fruit, the various natural microorganisms come off the skins and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of small branches, pips and red liquid. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and then add a commercially produced yeast."
Challenging Environments and Inventive Approaches
A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to establish her vines, has gathered his friends to pick white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to Europe. However it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to erect a barrier on